No water

When I checked this afternoon, we still had no water. This the fourth day now, but fortunately the water came back two days ago, so that we had time to fill the water tower (which means that this time, I am not entirely without water - I can do the dishes without carrying buckets from elsewhere and do not have to invite myself over to others in order to take a shower). Unfortunately, the water tower had a leak which means that yesterday, it was only 1/3 full and today, there should be even less. You'd be amazed at how easily you take things for granted. You take for granted that there is clean water in your tap. You take for granted that you can take a shower as soon as you feel uncomfortably hot - even though you might not always do it, you treasure the possibility to do so. You take for granted that you can wash your dishes immediately after use - not having to choose between washing up with dirty water or not washing up at all. And you take for granted that you have enough water for the washing machine - not that it suddenly stops because there wasn't enough water, and you are left to dry dirty clothes. However, you'd also be surprised at how possible it is to live a different life, and not use so much water. Six years ago, I had one of the most amazing experiences of my life when I followed Aïssa on a week-long trip to the bush, where we stayed with her nomad Bororo family.

The camp consisting of one man, his two wives, a few of his twelve grown-up children (with his first wife) with their respective families and his younger children as well; civilization in the middle of the nowhere. The sun was scorching hot and from nine am to five pm, there was no activity other than socializing, drinking tea and moving the mats around the tree in order to stay in the shade. With such a long siesta-period, you don't need much sleep. We went to bed after midnight and got up at six o'clock, the best period of the day.

We rode camels, horses and donkeys during our stay. The horses were my favorite, but the American Peacecorps volunteer who was staying with the family at that time fell off and from then on, I rode alone. The landscape was the same and navigating was tricky, but I wasn't worried because I went riding before they had had their morning drink, and so when it was time to go back home, I just gave the young stallion free reins and he headed straight for the well.

The most amazing thing that I did during this timeless adventure did not have anything to with animals or riding, but with water. After a few days, you started to feel sticky all over. This was when Aïssa brought me a large empty bucket and a smaller one, containing one liter of water. With this one liter of water, I walked away in the dark and found a secluded place far away from camp to be alone but not so far that I wouldn't find my way back again. Then in the moonlight, I showered with that one liter of water, and I cannot describe what a luxury that felt like! Surprisingly, the water was amply sufficient and I even showered my hair! I have never felt, neither before nor after, any shower give me such sense of satisfaction, nor has one never made me feel so immensely clean! That episode really marked me, and nowadays, when I find myself in a tight water situation, I just remind myself that one liter is enough and if you're not comfortable, just lower your expectations and you'd be surprised at how satisfied you'll be!

Ishtar

Looking for alternative strategies

This afternoon, YB and I went riding in the bush. I had made an effort last week to map up the villages nearby and learn their names, and as a result of it I can now tell you that we went from the outskirts of Zinder to the villages of Kasheni (whose name is somehow related to death, I have been told), Mandara, Dadin Serki and then all the way back again with an extra stop at the airfield, where the horses’ have their favorite gudu-stretch…

My favourite place on earth: In between the hills of Darin Serki and Mandara, where doom palm trees and acacias grow side by side in the deep, clean, beach-like sand with no civilization in sight! Unfortunately you have to be an experienced rider to get here, as it takes about twenty-five minutes of gallop each way.

We were out for more than an hour, and although YB does not speak a lot of French, we were talking most of the time (even when we were galloping side by side). I have really worked on my Hausa this year, and although I still feel it isn’t much, I am amazed at how many topics you can cover with so few words. It’s all about finding alternative strategies when you’re lacking a vital word. “Kagane?” (=Do you understand?) is a well used expression of mine, because when I do borrow a French word, I need to know that the other person understands. And YB is easy, because he’s very honest and let’s me know exactly when he has understood and when he hasn’t. At one point, I used the French word for “progress”, but YB did not know this word. I thought for a while how I would explain it, and then said “Before, Sahara had the work of a donkey but now she has the good work of a horse. That is progress. Do you understand?” And yes he did! At another point, we were talking about racing for fun, and he thought I should race with a jockey saddle. I tried to explain to him that I would not even be able to get up on a jockey saddle (much less remain on it!), but did not know the words for either ladder or balance (either could have helped me). So I just said, “I have problem a lot with a jockey saddle, I am no monkey!” And he laughed out load, mainly because by saying that, I was indirectly comparing him (and all the other jockey who just slip up and down the horses’ back with the most marvellous ease) to a monkey, but he understood that I was just trying to say that I did not have a jockey’s agility to get up on a nonexistent saddle which only seems symbolic in my eyes... So yes, I do not know a lot of Hausa words, but the words that I do know are used frequently. The hardest part I think is differentiating between similar words, when your mind just doesn’t remember (and after all my hajijiya – dizziness – lately, it’s been even harder to think straight). Was it huta (play) or hutu (rest) that Arwen had for three weeks? Banganeba (I don’t understand) or bansaneba (I don’t know)? Lots of ciwo (pain) or cizo (biting)? The outcome sort of depends on it!

So… The conclusion is that I now have a better understanding of what it’s like trying to communicate in a country where you don’t speak the language well! My choice is between avoiding Hausa altogether or not being afraid of making a fool of myself. And I’ll choose the latter, because with a little bit of Hausa, a few words of common French and lots of body language, you can cover the most amazing varieties of subjects, all it one outing… It just takes some patience from the listener and an effort from your side to constantly be on the look-out for alternative strategies, and voila, you develop your friendships!

Ishtar

Learning from Niger - "Somehow it will work!"

Well, if I haven't said it before, time certainly flies because all of a sudden, it was time for Sofia to go back home again to an anticipating family!

Even she thought time went by far too quickly, so I'm not making that up (about how time flies)!

She picked the worst possible day to leave - at least if you had a look at the weather. You see, there was a time in December that we had so much blue sky and sunshine that it was hard to imagine it could ever get cold in this country... But believe me, it can! And it gets dusty too!

Having said goodbye to the monkeys, including the old baboon Rez, the baby Julius and his mischievous sister Amalia.

Though she was not a dog person when she arrived, it seemed weird to go back to life without these four-legged companions... Baloo of course would be missed the most! (but then again, he is always such a favorite with visitors...)

There was something about there being trouble with the car, but let's think Nigerien - "it'll work itself out, somehow!"

Renate, Josef and Maurice going through the waypoints that had been taken on a previous journey to Kano (which warns for bad roads and different obstacles).

"I have no idea how I'll get through the airport, but somehow, it'll work!"

The car had to be pushed to a start, but after that, things went smoothly... (Just like the Nigerien saying anticipates, it all worked out!)

Off they went-

...leaving me alone in an empty house! Perhaps the four guard dogs, the three baboons, the five parrots and the two and a half horses will keep me company, now that the other three have left...

Ishtar

Training the Stubborn & the Lazy

Today, the Snowman and I had our very own scheme planned. He had recently bought a new horse and wanted to try it out, so I suggested that we race the three of them together: his newly bought who had the speed but lack the endurance, Snövit (the lazy but well-developed mare) and Sahara, my stubborn one...

Being one jockey short, the Snowman asked Chinada to ride Snövit. My ex-jockey cockily stated that he was certain that with this (lazy) mount, he would beat Sahara and her jockey (who has now replaced him and taken over his job). I said nothing, but thought to myself "You wish!"

However, more horses asked to join our party, which was not exactly the intention (we'd be racing on a whole different level!) and soon they were eight all together.

Chinada of course was quick to trade Snövit for the best mount!

After three jump starts, they finally set off, and Snowman and I were equally interested in our mares' progress, or should I say lack thereof...
Chinada won with a good margin on his black stallion...

... while Sahara and Snövit competed for the last position. In the end, Sahara won with a horse length, but it did not look very convincing, but then again, Sahara has been trained to run behind Arwen, so it was no surprise that she did not mind cantering over the finish line. I, however, knew that she could do better, and this provided me with a new challenge: how to get the lazy one (Snövit) and my stubborn darling (Sahara) to actually enjoy the game!

After all, it has always been much more challenging (and inspiring) to start as an underdog!

Anyway, Sahara was an eager mount and we worked on turns for a while, just for fun.

I even took Snövit on a second round, but now there's a horse that will run without passion!

A cheerful mood was set however, and Bala played out, making us all laugh. I was thrilled, because I had always taken him for being the serious one, and suddenly, neither Snowman, Sofia nor I could stop laughing...

Then, all horses had been ridden and Yaronbaba followed me into the bush where awaited a wonderful thirty minute full-gudu ride - my favorite!

Ishtar

First ones to go

Anette and my dad drove to Kano this morning. They're both flying to Sweden. My mom and sister were supposed to have come for Christmas, but my mom got a serious infection and so my dad is joining her instead. It's sad because we were really looking forward to seeing them again, but it feels good that he'll be by her side soon. She's been in a lot of pain lately and we all wish we could ease it in some way...

It's been great having Anette and my dad around (who would have thought that seven weeks could pass so quickly?) - now we'll have to see how well Sofia and I can do by ourselves... :-)

Ishtar

Play-aunts

Yesterday, Tabita, Anette, Sofia and I went out to look at the horses. We also walked over to Maurice's house and visited his family, as his youngest daughter Sadika is of the same age as Tabita, and they play a lot together - or should I say, looking and smiling at each other. Sadika has finally overcome her fear for me, and so I held her in my arms, and Sofia carried Tabita who was slightly sick and did not want to walk barefoot on the sand.
"I see Tabita has got three aunts now!" Maurice said happily, and yes, that's really true. Everywhere she turns, there is someone for her and she has picked up a lot of things since we arrived. Her favourites are tickling us in the back and washing up with whoever has enough patience to bear the shower involved...

Anette - which should by the way be pronounced "Aaaaaa....nETTe!" - has been the best of play mates and Sofia and I have had to accept coming second place... :-) Unfortunately for Tabita (and for the rest of us as well!) Anette will be leaving on Wednesday, together with my father, who will be rejoining my mother at the hospital. My mother was supposed to come with Miriam for the Christmas holidays, but they had to cancel their flight due to a number of sudden complications surrounding my mother's health. Things have been really tough for her lately and so we are glad that at least my dad is rejoining her, even though we would have wished - of course - to have them all here. God is near though and I'm so thankful, because without him, I don't know where we'd be right now.

Greetings!
Ishtar

Introducing Sofia to the race track

Since I haven't been able to ride for a long time (I'm still waiting for my wound to heal, not wanting to aggrevate the infection), I decided to stimulate myself visually instead. So Anette, Sofia and I went out to the race track, hoping to get a glimpse of one of the "sprattelgubbar" - as Anette so kindly calls them: the jockey wannabees that sit on top of exhausting horse, jumping up and down with the most amazing fury you've ever seen (it's incredible how they manage to stay on top of the horse, despite its lack of energy) trying to squeeze out the poor horse's last drop of energy... It's a highly entertaining sight, but I have never seen it work, nor have I seen any of the "real" jockeys do it... (Chinada would just dare!)

Ali was quick to come up to us. He was riding Satellite, one of the horses that he cares for (owned by a certain Elhadj at the other end of town) and had "dressed" him in the headset I had given him as a token of appreciation for the work he had done for me this summer. Had to help him put it right, but the stallion definitively looked a lot more handsome!

The race track may have no fixed times, but there is certainly a fixed order. First, the race horses arrive and walk a lap around the track. The horse carers then hand over their horse to the jockey, who will only ride them if their owner has arrived (by car). It's a very hierarchical place, which I love turning upside down.

The horse owners are mainly the richest men in town. Depicted on this picture, you find the Snow Man and the Gold Man, as we now refer to them. The Snow Man generally dresses in white which is the colour that shows that you do very little practical work yourself, or you would get dirty... The Gold Man has a doubtful background and believes that money will buy everything. However, success at the race track comes with a lot of hard work and (if you wish to take a short cut, which I do - not possessing enough patience to do things the Nigerien way...) innovating ideas. Since he has neither, and still wants to be on top of things, he solves the issue by buying himself a new horse about once every second month... Costly habit!

Now... Who wants to follow a race?

Step "1: Abbas and Chinada preparing for the start, which is never organised and takes about 15-30 minutes every time... (on top of things, the horses are so full of adrenaline that they can hardly stand still).

Finally, off they go...

... leaving behind a trail of dust!

After the first three hundred meters, they disappear behind the euphorbia hedge, only to reappear again for the last 400 meters.

Though they rarely do any wonder, whips are hailing during this last part, even though every race horse will always do his best to win. In the end, it all comes down to food and training. And some innovating ideas!

Ishtar

Back in Kano!!!

Yesterday morning, my father and I drove to Kano to pick up Sofia at the airport. First however we spent the afternoon doing errands in the busiest city I know!

Kano, a city where the signs say you can find anything you're looking for...

The hotell where we always stay

We were beat when we finally came back to the hotell and were so hungry that we ordered far more food than we actually wanted to eat! Having not slept very much lately, I was looking forward to a slow pace before going out to the airport at eleven pm to pick up Sofia, but the hotell owner wanted Dad to help him install his scanner and printer, so we ended up having to hurry nonetheless.
The plane was early (!) and Sofia got out of the custums' just as we had parked the car and were 30meters away. She had not had any trouble at all, which was amazing for a first journey!

She was happy but tired and fell asleep as soon as her head hit the pillow. That's what happens when your mind is bombared with new impressions!

/Ishtar