Sunday, October 29, 2006

Stress...

Stress is an interesting concept. It’s a second gear that comes in handy when you want to have many things done. It’s an amazing resource in our Western culture but it also comes with a price. When you abuse it, which we so often do, the body finally puts its foot down and suddenly says: “Hey, no more!” And that’s when you realize that it’s time for a two week long vacation where your brain just gets to rest…

That said; stress is an even more interesting concept when you find yourself in Niger. Mentally, somewhere in the back of your head, you are aware of the million things that need to be done, sooner or later. You find yourself making a mental list at least twice a day. The interesting thing however is what happens in between. You simply forget about it… In Niger, everything takes its time and this does not only concern the Nigeriens. It feels wrong to hurry through something which is working well. It feels wrong not to take your time with people you meet on the street. It feels wrong to rush even though you know it’s the only way you’re going to get all those million things done. And so even if you worry (over all the things you need to do), and your really find yourself frustrated (over the slow pace) at times, it is in fact impossible to stress in its true Western meaning.

Relaxing in the pool...

Renate, Tabita and Arwen in the garden...

Playing with Alsan and Kinza...

Though relaxing in the sunshine, this species is not one of Anette's favourites!

Ishtar

The market of Zinder

Today, Elisabeth, Renate, Anette and I went on a girls' outing to the market. The market is one of my favourite places, but that's because I know what I want, where to find it and who will give me the "good" prices... :-) As I've said before, building up a relationship is the key!

Not as crowded as Kano, but crowded enough...

Anette found it hard to focus on a particular tissue amidst these kaleidoscopes of patterns!

... so of us helped her out! And found her some blue bazain (not on the picture!).


Not only did we find nice cloth (and a dozen pair of flipflops), but we have also given Ringo the tailor some work, which we hope will be finished by the end of the week.

Cheers!
Ishtar

Friday, October 27, 2006

Dinner in the solar oven

Inspiration oh inspiration... Today, Anette and I went out in the garden and tasted the leaves of several Eden trees. The one we chose was fresh and slightly sour. When you cook food in the solar oven, you need to keep it a bit basic, so we mixed meat with tomatoes, carrots, onion, garlic, Eden leaves and spices. We put it out in the morning and at 1 p.m. it was ready! And we had fat-free, solar coooked dinner!

Thursday, October 26, 2006

Solar cooker

Today I cooked millet in the solar oven for the first time, and guess what? Anette actually liked it! Millet has a strong taste (for being a cereal...) but once you get used to it, it gets hard to do without it... When I'm in Sweden, I always miss the Nigerien evening meal with solar cooked millet, milk and bananas (you wouldn't believe how much the taste down here!). It is probably no surprise that I was thrilled to have the solar oven in use and cooked millet on the table in the evening!

Isthar

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Arwen's return

In the afternoon, Ali, Chinada and another jockey (by the name of Bala) came over to help me set up a place for Arwen in Josef and Renate's garden...


To being with, Chinada cleared the grass and then we added four carts of sand, which cost about €10...


Arwen is now happily installed in Josef and Renate's garden (though as soon as the fence has been set up here, I will move her to the Eden ground next door)....


It was really good to have Arwen back again, but unfortunately, she had changed quite a lot since I left! Long gone was the little obedient bush horse that I had fallen in love with. What I now had in my hands instead was an amazing race horse, but unfortunately also a true Diva! It did not take long to see that Arwen has gotten used to having people around her - and they are they were to serve her, not be obeyed... A short ride with Arwen in the bush quickly made me realise that if I'm going to keep this mare, I will not only have to train away Arwen's new queenish ways but also train Chinada in how to ride her, so that she is not only stimulated through racing. Right now, she is set on one thing and one thing only: racing! In her mind, it starts just outside the gate and goes on until she's back. But I'll give her two weeks and see if I can't retrain her, because I know that deep inside, there is a strong will in her to please, and for the last nine months, no one has required anything else from her other than racing. And what you ask from Arwen; your receive tenfold for a racing horse, she is...

So wish me good luck folks! :-)

Ishtar

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

My birthday


My birthday started at 7.15 in the morning, when Josef, Renate, Tabita, Anette and my father came in singing the Garvi birthday tune that my sister wrote to my grandfather's birthday, many, many years ago... Though I had not slept for many hours that day, I must say that starting the day with a dose of Tabita is a great treat...

The first few days

I can’t believe how quickly time has passed... I’ve been in Zinder for… four full days (sorry, had to count…) and everything is so relaxed. The days pass quickly and without stress, and it’s only when evening comes that I start thinking about all the things I would have liked to do, but didn’t even come to think of during the day…

The first few days were spent getting in order. We’re still far from done but at least we’re getting there. Both Anette and I have unpacked our things (that is, I still have a suitcase full of horse equipment left on the floor…) and that feels like an achievement. On Friday afternoon, after several hours of hard work cleaning the kitchen, we went for a walk before sunset… Though I hadn’t planned on it, we ended up going to Ali’s, where I, to my great delight, found Arwen in an even better shape than when I left her! She had grown in size and it was much more than her pregnancy – in fact, she looked like a brand new horse! And that explained to me why the fodder hadn’t lasted, because this horse had been eating a lot more than one month of salary during the time I had been away!


Ali wasn’t home, so we then went over to Josef and Renate, where we planned my father’s birthday the following day. He had said beforehand that he didn’t have the energy for any celebration, and, seeing that it’ll be my turn tomorrow, I sincerely understand him, but at that point, we didn’t just want to let it go unnoticed – despite the fact that the house was pretty much up and down. So Josef, Renate and Tabita sneaked in at eight thirty and we woke him up in bed. With presents and chocolates. It ended up being a nice, calm day…

On Sunday afternoon, Anette and I went to the race track. Although it was in the middle of the Ramadan feast, there were only two races – mostly with novice horses.

Everyone asked for Arwen and I was surprised by the number of people that had gone to see her when I was away. Now why would they do that? It turned out that I have set a new trend in Zinder. Last year, when I got Arwen, they didn’t believe that mares could run. I never really understood the commotion when Arwen showed herself at practice but in retrospect, it was their aha-moment. Mares actually do run… E.I. happily informed me of all the horse owners that had followed my example and purchased mares themselves and I couldn’t help myself but to say: “But I thought you guys said mares couldn’t run!”
“Yes, but that was before we saw the success you had with Arwen!”
Lol… So my “secret” is out and Arwen will be getting more female competition… It doesn’t matter because I didn’t buy her to watch her run. However, if her reputation is such that her foal will sell at a high price, then I’ll be very satisfied. Maybe my little hobby won’t be that expensive after all…
J

Now as for the social mingling, Zinder’s race track is a funny place where you meet all the who’s who of town together with their entourage. And I noted another interesting thing about Niger. Because everybody is watching everyone, people are careful with whom they greet and when. I was very happy to scan the area behind sunscreens but I noticed that it made people very hesitant when they wanted to see me.

“Is that really you Ishtar or is it a look-alike?” E.I. said when he saw me. As if he didn’t recognize me… He just couldn’t meet my gaze and therefore was afraid of making a fool of himself! Imagine if I had turned my back on him or something; people would have talked about that for ages…

I guess this is one of the reasons why I love the racetrack so much. You have everybody’s eyes on you (they know all the gossip there is to be told about you, your horse, your horse keeper and your jockey) which means that you can actually make an imprint by turning their hierarchical system upside down. When I see Ali, who is “just” a horse keeper, I shake his one hand with both my hands, which is a great sign of respect. When I pass The Goldman however, one of the most influential men in this city (who wanted to date me when I was sixteen and obviously hasn’t changes his mind), I only nod in his direction and he cannot even be sure that my nod was meant for him.

The Goldman however is not one to be put off, so in this case, he waited for his opportunity and when I followed E.I. out in the fields to have a look at a horse of his that had fallen in, the Goldman was quick to follow. Last year, I got so irritated by the fact that he was constantly following me around and intruding on my society, but now I have gotten used to it. The fun part is that because of his interest in me (whether that be as a female, a European or a human – I am still not sure) he is now conversing with people beneath him and everybody is watching him. Because he rarely gets my attention, he puts on all his charm towards whoever I am speaking to and other people take after his example. So we are setting a new trend, just like with the racing mares… J

And I must admit that although I cannot make him leave even if I would wish to, I have a lot of fun putting him in place. Nobody does that to a rich man but I have nothing to gain from him, so why should he be more than my equal? I may be a woman but humor with a touch of stinging sarcasm (well aimed, of course!) gain a lot of respect in this society. I really don’t understand why he so desperately wants us to be friends because I am rarely nice to him (or should I say gentle with him?). It always ends with a small crowd of people laughing at him and I always find a weak spot in everything that he says. He is persistent though and for that, I must give him credit for. But if teasing him can make him a better person as well, then why not? After all, he does listen to a lot of the things that I tell him and he often comes back to show me that this or that has changed. Personal development – just my favorite…

That said, time has now flown away and I’d better be off in order to get some rest…

Sei gobe!

Ishtar

Saturday, October 21, 2006

Back in Niger!

Finally, I’m back in Niger! It’s 36 degrees, slightly humid (dry heat is better!), my body is swollen and my head aches when I wake up in the mornings… No surprise though, because I know it normally takes about three days for my body to adjust.

The journey went smoothly. When I come to think about it, it must have been the smoothest journey ever. Nothing went wrong, no one was stressed, time went so quickly and we had a lot of fun… Getting through the checkups went smoothly (!); partly because there were so few passengers disembarking in Kano but also because we were traveling with my father. In Africa, connections and friendship is the key to success…

Exhausted from all the stress prior to leaving, I fell asleep seconds after my head hit the pillow. In a blue bedroom; the one I always stay in when we’re spending the night in Kano. The shower was Anette’s first shock but she quickly got over it (she had been thoroughly warned, but you still need to see it for your own eyes before you can imagine it). Surprisingly, you don’t need that much time actually to adjust to the crooked walls and all the other peculiarities of Nigeria… It’s rather fun, coming to a new – imperfect – world!

Breakfast was an interesting combination of uniquely boiled eggs (the yokes were hardboiled while the whites were liquid – I’ve never seen that before!), coffee/tee, toast with jam and a tonic soda, especially meant for those who weren’t taking any malaria medicine (I had run out of my small supply the evening before…). We then set out to do some errands in town, and Anette got to see West Africa’s Cairo: Kano.

The large city was as usually pulsating and shabby – the only difference being that for once, I took a (small) likening to it. I’d NEVER want to live in Kano, it’s the dirtiest and most disorganized town I know, but I’ve sort of got used to it and that makes me like it.

A day however was far sufficient for me and at five o’clock in the afternoon, I was happy to enter greener areas.

The good roads didn’t last long and after one bump that threw us all in the air, Anette commented: “It’s no wonder your cars wear out quickly in a country with these kinds of roads!” And that wasn’t the worse I’ve seen… Anyway, the journey from Kano to Zinder was long (by then, you feel so close to your target, you’ve simply run out of patience) but I was happily reminded how much better I have become after the concussion in January, when I got totally exhausted… In Zinder, Josef and Renate were waiting for us, and they had already cleaned part of the house and made the beds… Nice surprise! I don’t remember how long they stayed; I just remember trying to get a picture of the situation, what needed to be repaired and what would have to be done before you could actually start “living” in the house…

We slept until 9.30 (all three of us actually), had breakfast and then set about to work. Anette and I started with the kitchen, cleaning the cupboards (and everything in them) from dust! We kept doing it for most part of the day, and we still have a long way to go… But we’re getting forward. We did do other things though. First, we had lunch on the veranda in the company of the parrots and then Anette and I showered one of the dogs before taking a dip in the pool, which was just perfect… After two more hours of cleaning in the afternoon, we went for a walk. First we went to see Arwen, who was pleasantly big (not fat, but broad) and seemed to be in excellent form (though slightly irritated because Ali had gone to the racing track without her – she wouldn’t quit staring at the gate, expecting him back) and then over to Renate and Josef, where Tabita showed us her play telephone (and many other toys). After that, Anette and I spent some more time with the dogs and the pool and then… you know, time just flew.

I’ll be interesting to see what tomorrow will bring… For starters, it’s my father’s birthday (the first one he’ll be celebrating without my mother since before their engagement) and Josef, Renate and Tabita are coming over in the morning to wake him up in bed. Old family tradition… Don’t know if he’ll appreciate it (he keeps saying that he doesn’t want any attention), but I figure he could do with a pleasant surprise! And Anette and I bought a big box of Lindt chocolate in Amsterdam (amazing how much money you can spend on chocolate, only to come here and buy “real” things for the price!) which I think he will appreciate…

Ok, got to go to bed now; soon I’ve got less than eight hours before I need to go up again and in this heat (and with the remnants of my concussion still making themselves felt from time to time), I could do with some sleep…

Cheers!

Ishtar

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Pictures

Anette: going to West Africa for the first time in her life!

Arne Victor: Tired after a short night (so much to pack)!

Last shot from Europe!

Most passengers went off in Abuja - meaning we got the aircraft to ourselves for several minutes...

Saturday, October 14, 2006

What a luxury!

I woke up this morning after ten hours of sleep and the whole thing (that is, going to Niger in a few days) seemed so unreal... My body really wants to get into that final departure-mode when there's nothing left to do but waste the final hours away, but hey, that would be suicide right now because we're Saturday today and we're not leaving until Wednesday morning...

Anyway, every good day is something to be thankful for, and today seems to be one of those... They asked me yesterday if I wanted to work today (from 9am to 9pm, so it's not as if there would have been time for anything else!), but I actually said no and I'm really happy about that (although I never enjoy missing an opportunity, even if it would have been nothing more than an opportunity to make more money...). A whole day by myself seems like such a luxury! A whole day to do things without any stress! Ah... no wonder this is going to be a good day!

Sei Anjima! (= until we meet again)

Esther

Falkenberg, Sweden 2006

Thursday, October 12, 2006

Less than a week before I leave...

... and I am so stressed out! I've been waiting six months for this and now that it's finally time to leave, I find it... too soon.

Oh dear, Ishtar must turned herself back into Esther a long time ago! It'll be one nice transition time when I finally arrive!
Full of frustration... and I'm already tired. But the thing is, it hasn't been an easy year. My mom is in the middle of her cancer treatment and it's not easy to leave her behind. As for myself, I still get dizzy from the concussion I had in January, especially when I get stressed. And right now, I'm really stressed because there are so many things that need to be done before I go. But I guess one day at a time is the key, huh?


Very well. I'll do my best, go to bed early, try to relax so that I can think clearly for the rest of the week. Tomorrow is my last day at work and then, there's just a hasty weekend where I'll be flying Halmstad-Uppsala and back in two days. Though I'm looking forward to holding a presentation at Rotary, I still have to prepare it and that takes time... Which you find loads of in Niger (at least people seem to have plenty of it!) but not here...

No, Ishtar has most definitively gone and transformed herself back into Esther again. Not that I suffer from multiple personalities, but in order to live in two worlds so different from each other, you need to adapt to the culture and the rythmes... And they are very far from each other. Here in Sweden - as Esther - I work around the clock, keep a million projects going at the same time and rush from one thing to another. Or so it seems.

In Niger - as Ishtar - I get to admire the blue sky (almost) every day. I take time with people, animals and God (well actually, I do that here in Sweden as well). I spent some days being frustrated over the slow pace but most of all, I am constantly reminded of how thankful I am for all the things in my life that are so wonderful. My job (in Niger, the one I don't get paid for), my family, my friends, my relationship with God - the distance that you get from all material things once you've actually managed to slow down the pace and turn a little African...

Oh yes, I love Niger, with all of my heart. It's the most frustrating place I can be in, and yet, I always miss it when I leave. Even though Sweden is a great and comfortable country to live in (would be weird if not, seeing that it's one of the most developped countries in the world!) , I miss Niger every day that I'm away...

So that would be my life story the last couple of months: working around the clock (but hey, I've done some progress because I limited myself to two jobs this year!) and missing Africa. I know I romanticise a lot about Niger - lol, I can
practically make anyone wish to go and live there just because I paint such a wonderful picture - and although I know it's not materially wonderful (uh no, about as far from it as you could possible get, seeing that Niger is the least developed country in the world...) it has that freedom within you that is so wonderful for the soul.

When I'm in Niger - and we'd better fast-forward the first two weeks after my arrival because they are awfully frustrating (transforming from a Scandianvian TCK to an African Swede) - I'm at peace. I live my life knowing that every single day, I can make a difference. I can help, I can inspire, I can challenge, I can work to make people experience that unique aha-moment that they so desperately need to awaken. Because Niger is a country that stands still. It is the poorest country in the world, but it has no war or natural disaster to blame it on. It is just plain poor, with the majority of people suffering from a sort of apathetic condition. Yes, that would be my description. Now what could there possible be to love about that??

Well, stick around for a while, following me during my ups and downs in this faraway country (which often refer to as the "end of the world"), and maybe by the time we reach march 2007 (when it will be time for me to go back to civilisation and earn some more money so that I can return again) you will understand why Niger, despite its poverty and slow pace, is such an incredible rich country...

With love, Ishtar